Ski Fast, Safety Last

Gentle Readers,

*Click photos to enlarge

I made the visit to Ski Dubai this evening with three of my good friends; Camellia and Afsoon from Iran, and Andres from Puerto Rico. The place was quite interesting. The snow was of quality that rivaled Afton Alps, though that doesn't say much (sorry, Afton). Ski, boot, and clothing rental is included in the price for a two hour session on the slopes. They've done a really good job with the whole alpine motif, its quite nice.

I enjoyed my experience but couldn't help notice it was a microcosm of Westerners, many who you could tell resided in the Emirates. It was evident that many of us were there for the same reason. We wanted to take part in something that once brought us great enjoyment, but in the present we were only reminded of what once was, and left us wanting more though the fact we were in the desert seemed to be in everyones mind. Its difficult to explain, I hope that makes sense. This is just an observation I made.

After skiing, we continued the alpine experience and went to a bar named Apres for martinis. It overlooks the slope and has the whole alpine thing goin' on as well. Very nice.

I thoroughly enjoyed myself and my company and its definitely an experience for the record books. After all, how many people can say they've skied in the desert?

Apres is among the windows on the wall at the base of the slope

I couldn't help but notice that little yellow sign. Provocative on so many levels.

Camellia and Myself

Culinary Endeavors

Gentle Readers,

Thanks to a minor disaster while making myself dinner this evening (chicken penne pasta), my notebook smells like blood, several pages of said notebook are now adhered to my countertops, and i cannot find my garlic...

Money Buys the Best

The "system" in the UAE is in place only to control those who cannot afford to beat it. For example, "parking on the roundabout is strictly prohibited" and authorities let it be known at every corner. However, each roundabout is perpetually filled with parked cars though you're not likely to find a car parked there that isn't a mint condition luxury vehicle.

When it comes to crime here, the unofficial policy seems to state that anyone can call this country home no questions asked so long as you don't infringe upon the prosperity of, or disturb the peace in place in the country. The turning of this blind eye has allowed the likes of Dawood Ibrahim and Victor Bout to call this place home for many years. The mere presence of this sort of affluent and colorful resident fosters organized crime. The two predominant groups in the UAE are the Russian and Indian Mafias; the Russians who dominate the illegal drug trade not only here but throughout the Gulf, and the Indians with their prostitution rings. There are maybe one or two arrests within each group every month; enough to satisfy authorities but not nearly enough to interrupt the crime syndicates.

Keeping this business hush-hush are authorities who fear, and rightfully so as they have developed a highly successful system, both the loss of income from parallel black markets, and the tarnished international reputation that comes with admitting there is a major problem with organized crime. An example of both sides at work is a somewhat recent murder that took place in the Burj Al Arab, the worlds most famous hotel. An illegal diamond transaction went bad leaving a Russian "businessman" dead, the event was scarcely heard of anywhere. If things like this were to become widely publicized, international pressure would be exerted on the UAE government to control organized crime, and the world's most famous hotel would suffer from a blemished reputation.

I've come to the realization that this is a country with an amazing PR team. The international perception of Dubai consists of the immaculate hotels, some fake islands, and a luxurious mall with a ski slope. I'll be the first to admit, its easy to get caught up in the act, but interspersed between these icons of luxury is the country no one hears about.

Ramadan Mubarak

Gentle Readers,

A few of you have been pestering me to update. The problem is, theres not much to report from the home front. Not much of significance at least.

The weekend quickly came and went. It being the first weekend of Ramadan, the campus was more dead than usual, as everyone returned home to be with their families. Ed, his neighbor Zaid, a guitarist named Seth and I sat in the courtyard of Ed's building Thursday night smoking Cuban cigars, eating Chinese food and jammin' with the guitar and a harmonica. It was quite the relaxing night I'd been needing.

All of the nightclubs and many of the bars across the country are closed for the next thirty days in recognition of the holy month, however, all hotel venues are still open. Last night, Ed, Saad, and I paid a visit to the Kempinski, our new stomping grounds until the Outside Inn re-opens. I must say, quite the nice place; quiet, on the beach, and shitty American bar food (though food nor beverage are served before 7pm). It reminded me of the glory days of luxe travel in the 60's. Think, One Mint Julep by Ray Charles playing in the background; if you don't know it, look it up. I'm looking forward to the coming month:

http://www.kempinski-ajman.com/shared/nps/vtours/beach_night.mov

http://www.kempinski-ajman.com/shared/nps/vtours/poolbar_night.mov

http://www.kempinski-ajman.com/shared/nps/vtours/sabellas_outside.mov

*To view links: highlight and copy paste to address bar

On campus, Life is a little difficult as it is illegal to be seen eating in public during daylight hours. On the bright side, it'll be a easy month on the food bill.

My first 10 day break is rapidly approaching. With Eid break just three and a half weeks away and no solidified plans (I refuse to buy a plane ticket 'til I get my passport back from UAE immigration), I am really working on my comfort level with the phrase fly by the seat of your pants. Currently, I'm planning on soaking up some rays on the beaches of Sri Lanka. It'd be nice to hit up a diving excursion too. Right now, it looks like I can get by for the 10 days on just 450 dollars including airfare. Thats my kind of vacation.

Raisin Bran

will be the death of me...

Went to the grocery store yesterday in preparation For Ramadan. If we eat in public we will be confronted by law enforcement.

I made out like a bandit for 50 bucks:

Raisin Bran - 1 box
Smacks - 1 box
Tuna (Dolphin free of course) - 4 cans
Lindt Chocolate - 2 bars
Spaghetti Sauce - 2 jars
Grapes - 1 kilo
Green Beans - 1 kilo
Garlic - 3 Cloves
Chunky Peanut Butter - 1 jar
strawberry preserves - 1 jar
Milk - 1 Gal
Yogurt - 6 pcs
Laughing Cow Cheese - 24 pcs
Butter - 1 lb
Mayonnaise - 1 jar
FISH STICKS - 1 box
Olive Oil - 1 jar
Spaghetti - 2 bags
Bowtie Noodles - 2 bags
Gourmet Ramen - 6 pcs
Toilet paper - 3 rolls
Paper Towels - 2 rolls
Chicken breasts - 3 kilos
Bread - 1 loaf
Halloumi Cheese -1 roll
Spicesssssss

After a month or so without any fiber though, the three bowls of raisin bran this morning proved fatal.

I'm at a loss as to why my room smells like burnt peppers and cookies.

A professor asked Kelly and I to house sit for him 'til the end of the month. Score.

The SCUBA club doesn't appear to really exist and the Radio club wants me to host a radio program. They later admitted they don't broadcast online or over airwaves so I'm confused as to what they really do.

When In Rome...

*Click Photos to Enlarge

...Do as the Romans Do. When in Ghayathi, do as the Ghayathis do.

This weekend I had the privilege of going home with a Bedouin friend I've met here at university. For those of you that don't know, Bedouins are Arabia's traditional nomad families living. On our way down, my friend Ali, informed me that I was probably the first westerner to visit his village in three or four years and that he was probably the only person in the village that spoke English.

The moment we arrived at his house I was thrust into the deep traditions of Bedouin life. The dos and don'ts are infinite though I did my best to learn. Today, most families live in small town and keep what are called Izbahs, a swath of land in the desert on which they raise camels, horses, sheep, goats, and falcons. Oil money by way of government subsidies has made it possible for most every citizen to build a house and afford a luxury automobile. It is important to remember though, that the vast majority of the people within this country's borders are not Emirati citizens and naturalization is next to impossible. The first night brought drifting (dune buggying with luxury suv's) and traditional music in the middle of the desert with Ali's friends.

The next day, I awoke to several children, who soon became my fanclub, peering through the broken window to catch a glimpse of the "Ameriqi." who had come into town. After breakfast we made a tour of the village and met Ali's friends. The day also brought my first case of TD. Most likely brought upon by the endless tea I was obligated to drink as a guest in everyone's house. However delicious, I will be mindful to bring toilet paper next time...

We headed for the desert that evening to an Izbah for food and company of maybe a few dozen of Ali's relatives. The night was filled with horseback riding, drifting, football, milking camels , and food. We ate in the open air of the desert, still warm long after sunset. Dinner was followed by Tradition bedouin song and dance all produced by the people I had joined. It was close to dawn before we made our way back to town for rest.

The weekend was a cultural experience no vacation, university, or museum could reproduce and I am grateful Ali gave me the opportunity.

You know your Dad's an engineer when you think to take pictures of transmission lines for him...

Emirati Desert

First night in the Desert. Ali and I at center. They were eager to let me play the drum, but only for a few seconds each time before they remembered how much I sucked at it.

Trying my best to fit in. I was informed I'd be wearing fully traditional dress next time.

Road to the Izbah

At the Izbah:

Football at Izbah

Ali and some of his family


Horses at the Izbah. Not quite as tame as those in Hills...

Drifting int the desert. When you get stuck, the only thing you can do is let the air out of your tires to gain traction and hope it works.

Ahmed and Kalifa. Ali's Nephew and little brother who insisted on shadowing me everywhere I went.

Al Arabia

Gentle Readers,

The week has quickly come and gone. After just a few sessions of Arabic we've now got the whole alphabet down which apparently takes GW professors upwards of seven weeks to accomplish. This coupled with the slang and conversational stuff I'm picking up here and there, its coming along well. I sat in the shower just now for twenty minutes trying to sound out my shampoo bottle. TMI??

The week saw a third world medical clinic, an evening at the Outside Inn with Ed, and a luxe night in Dubai with a friend one my professor introduced me to. We went out for sushi and happy hour at a bar at the Medina Jumeirah, the celebrity laced neighborhood under the Burj Al Arab . My professor described my new acquaintance as "well Connected" in the Dubai socialite's scene. I'll leave it at that.

I broke down tonight. I gave in. I did it. I ate at KFC. And it was delicious.

Vanity Fair

...not just a magazine.

Gentle Readers,

A few things I've learned about License plates and phone numbers: They're status symbols here. License plates are almost as important as the flashy car they adorn. the closer the letter to A, the better, the more distinct a number sequence the better, the fewer numbers the better. Just to put it into perspective; the license plate B 123 just sold for 36 000 000 dirhams or 10 million dollars. Phone numbers are the same. They can be purchased if you have the money, or acquired if you have the clout. A number such as 5444444 is worth upwards of 75 000 dollars.

It occurred to me that the lavish lifestyle so normal here would be the status quo in the US as well if there were no taxes. Here, there are no taxes whatsoever, land is free, and families receive housing subsidies. You connect the dots.

This evening was quite the experience. Many of us foreign students had to go the municipal clinic this afternoon for a medical exam. It included a blood test and x-ray and despite the first world reputation, the clinic didn't exactly live up to the reputation of the country... 20 of us were shoved into a small waiting room by a screaming Pakistani doctor who didn't speak English and told to prepare for the x-ray. A good bonding experience is a polite way of putting it I guess. The blood test was something for the record books as well. The 'nurse' who had presumably been sitting there for hours went after my forearm as if she were digging around inside it with a garden hose. Who knows how clean the garden hose was too...

Afterwards, Ed and I decided to ditch the university bus and do some exploring. Leave it to the cab and coach drivers to tell you what life is really like behind the glamour in the UAE... We ended up at the Outside Inn, the hang-out I previously told you about. Fosters, Peanuts, company of a good friend, and a chili dog later, I had forgotten where I was. Glorious.

Time to watch some Frontline. Again, Thank you L.B.S.

Weekend Update.

If only Tina Fey was helping me write...

Gentle Readers,

The second weekend has come and gone much more enjoyably than its predecessor. Thursday night brought wreckless drivers, an immaculate shopping mall, and sheesha. Also known as hookah to those of you in DC, and those really tall pipe things to those unfimiliar with the whole concept. Its enriched tobacco laced with sweeteners so its like a swisher weest from a pipe. 8 of us piled in to an SUV for the evening when I was immediately made aware that it was extremely rude to wear a seatbelt as is means you don't trust the drivers abilities. However, the reason the university collects our blood type is because so many students die in car crashes (Official statement). I think I'll be wearing my seatbelt from here on out regardless. I'm 'A' positive by the way.

Last night I accompanied Kelly and two of her friends to the Outside Inn, a tavern on the beach north of campus. The sign on the door kindly stated that those not wearing "casual western attire" were not welcome. Racism in kind words I guess... The place, located on the beach of the Persian gulf, was full of western nationals (Among us were French, Germans, Russians, Australians, etc...), was very cozy, and very cheap. The sort of place you'd see in a movie like Syriana. I can definitely see myself frequenting the joint in the coming months. Later in the evening, I met up with a friend from class and we went to yet another immaculate mall (They're everywhere). We met a friend of his, an American born Saudi from Arizona, very good people. We decided to see the movie Rogue Assassin. Terrible movie. Terrible. I returned at 2:30 (curfew is at 1am) and with the help of my new friend from class swooned my building supervisor into being ok with my being late on the weekends for the rest of the semester (something about letting me experience the full Emirati culture, most of the negotiation took place in Arabic. I was clueless). Officially sanctioned late nights. yesssssss.